This steep stairway hike climbs from the heart of Amalfi — steps away from the cathedral — up through the old quarter and into the hillside hamlet of Pogerola, which sits 350 meters above the coast. The route follows centuries-old stone staircases that once served as the only connection between the farming communities above and the maritime town below. You pass through narrow passages between ancient houses, under archways draped with jasmine, and past tiny vegetable gardens clinging to impossible terraces. As you climb, the noise of Amalfi fades and is replaced by birdsong and the sound of water in irrigation channels. The views back over Amalfi's harbor and the coast open up dramatically with every turn. Pogerola itself is a working village largely untouched by tourism, with a small piazza, a church, and a couple of trattorie where locals eat. This walk gives you the authentic Amalfi that the crowds below never see.
Climbing through Amalfi's medieval old quarter
Stone staircases used for a thousand years
Expanding panorama over Amalfi harbor with every turn
Authentic village life in Pogerola, untouched by tourism
Jasmine-covered stone arch framing the sea below — quintessential Amalfi
Amalfi's harbor, cathedral, and coastline spread below — best at golden hour
The tiny village square with its ancient church — quiet, authentic, timeless
Year-round. Best in early morning or late afternoon — the stairs are in shade for much of the day due to buildings. Hot in summer midday. Spring wildflowers on the upper terraces.
Start: Amalfi center (Piazza Duomo), served by all SITA buses and ferries. End: Pogerola, connected to Amalfi by local bus (15 min, runs regularly). Can walk back down the same way.
Have lunch at a Pogerola trattoria — the food is home-cooked, the prices are half of Amalfi below, and nobody speaks English. Try the scialatielli ai frutti di mare.
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