The vertical town
Positano
Positano is the jewel of the Amalfi Coast — a vertical pyramid of pastel houses tumbling down to a dark-sand beach.
- From Amalfi by ferry
- 25min
- From Amalfi by bus
- 40min
- Now
- 17°
- Usually, at this hour
- Almost empty
The guide
What Positano is like.
Founded in the 9th century around a Benedictine abbey, it grew with refugees from Paestum fleeing Saracen raids. After centuries of decline and emigration to the US, it was reborn in the 20th century when artists like Picasso, Steinbeck, Paul Klee and Liz Taylor made it their refuge. Today it’s the most famous village on the coast — glamorous, vertical, and entirely made of stairs.
Good to know
- Go early morning or late afternoon — midday is overwhelmingly crowded.
- Positano is a vertical city of stairs — best for young couples. Families with small children or mobility issues should base in Amalfi instead.
- For the classic Positano photo (full village cascade), shoot from the SS163 viewpoint above town near Hotel Sponda, not from the beach.
- Hippy-chic fashion is Positano’s trademark: handmade linen dresses ('pezze di Positano') and custom sandals made while you wait by local artisans.
- Music on the Rocks — nightclub carved into the cliff at the beach. The place to end an evening in Positano.
- Parking is a nightmare: €4-8/hour minimum. Take the ferry or bus instead.
Reiseuhu
Márcio Pêgo
Jānis Beitiņš
Sebastian LeonhardtWhat to see
7 things, in walking order
- Spiaggia GrandeThe main beach — 300m of dark sand, vibrant beach clubs, and the heart of Positano’s social life. Frequented by the international jet-set.
- Fornillo BeachA quieter, more intimate beach reached via the romantic Sentiero degli Innamorati from Spiaggia Grande, past ancient Saracen watchtowers.
- Arienzo BeachKnown as the 'beach of 300 steps' — the reward is the last sunset light on the entire coast.
- Church of Santa Maria AssuntaThe majolica-tiled dome, visible from all over town. Inside: the Byzantine Madonna Nera icon (13th century), linked to the legend of Positano’s name.
- Li Galli IslandsThree mythical islands off the coast — the ancient 'Sirenuse' of Homer’s sirens. Once owned by dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Boat trips with swimming stops.
- Nocelle & MontepertusoHill frazioni above Positano. Nocelle is where the Path of the Gods ends, high above Positano. Montepertuso has a dramatic hole pierced through the mountain rock.
- Path of the GodsThe trail from Bomerano (Agerola) to Nocelle (a little over 5 km, 4h, easy). Walk it east to west for the views in front of you.
Where to eat
The ones we would send a friend to
- Da AdolfoBeach restaurant at Laurito cove, reached only by its free boat shuttle from Spiaggia Grande (look for the red fish on the mast). Book ahead.
- La TagliataIn Montepertuso above Positano. Home cooking, and a terrace with a view over the coast. Worth the climb.
Sea, trails, festivals
In Positano and around it.
Beaches
Trails
Festivals and events
- Ferragosto FireworksAug 15
- Assumption Processions at SeaAug 14-15
- Last Swimming DaysThrough late October
- New Year’s Eve on the CoastDec 31
In Positano
Where to stay, what to do.
The coast passport
In Positano? Get the stamp.
Your phone checks that you are really here. Ten towns, ten stamps.
The other towns
