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Amalfi Experience

The Amalfi Coast One road

Ten towns along thirty-six and a half kilometres, between the mountains and the sea. And around them 22 beaches and 18 trails: told by the people who live here.

Eight guides, freeThe pass for your own days, €5

Scroll: we leave from Positano.

Amalfi, Thursday 15 October, 01:55 · the sun is below the horizon · rises at 07:12

  1. km 0.0The vertical town

    Positano from the road, its houses stepping down to Spiaggia Grande and the boats at anchorPositanoPhoto Letizia Agosta

    Locals say

    The classic photograph, the whole village tumbling down, is taken from the coast road above town, near Hotel Sponda. Not from the beach.

    The Positano guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  2. km 8.3Where the sun goes down

    San Gennaro in Praiano, its tiled dome over the seaPraianoPhoto 3DVISU

    Locals say

    Sunset from the terrace on the coast road: it is free, and Capri is right in front of you.

    The Praiano guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  3. km 10.6The fjord

    The Furore bridge over the fjord, seen from the waterFurorePhoto Vincenzo Merolla

    Locals say

    Go down to the fjord early: later it fills up, and after midday the sun is gone.

    The Furore guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  4. km 17.0The maritime republic

    Amalfi from the sea, the town held between the mountainsAmalfiPhoto Ken Shono

    Locals say

    See the cathedral early: before ten it is almost empty.

    The Amalfi guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  5. km 17.8Italy’s smallest town

    Atrani, white houses packed above the beach and the road on archesAtraniPhoto Hongbin

    Locals say

    From Amalfi it is five minutes on foot, through the tunnel. Most people never make it.

    The Atrani guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  6. above the coast road · 365 m above the seaThe town of music

    The pine and the towers of Villa Rufolo above the coast in RavelloRavelloPhoto Jordi Vich Navarro

    Locals say

    Arrive by nine and the terrace at Villa Cimbrone is almost yours: the groups come at half past ten.

    The Ravello guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  7. km 21.0Pasta and pastry

    Minori and Maiori from above, the two bays one after the otherMinoriPhoto Mihaela Claudia Puscas

    Locals say

    Go to De Riso early: after ten the best pastries are gone.

    The Minori guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  8. km 22.1The longest beach

    Maiori from above, the long beach and the bay behind flowersMaioriPhoto Matteo Eria

    Locals say

    Maiori and Minori cost less than Positano, for the same quality.

    The Maiori guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  9. km 31.7The fishing village

    Cetara harbour with the fishing boats mooredCetaraPhoto Alan Aerts

    Locals say

    Buy colatura in Cetara: what the tourist shops sell is often industrial. The real one ages three years in chestnut.

    The Cetara guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

  10. km 36.5Ceramics

    The tiled dome of San Giovanni Battista in VietriVietri sul MarePhoto Maria Gavrilova

    Locals say

    In Raito the workshops are quieter, the prices better, and you can take a class to learn the craft.

    The Vietri sul Mare guideUsually at this hour: almost empty

Same road, another hour

At dusk, dinner is in Piazza Umberto I, in Atrani.

It comes from the Atrani guide

The sun is today’s real one, and the shadows are the mountains’ own. The crowds are a local’s estimate, not a sensor.

On your own days the pass does this · €5

Elevation SRTM · coast and roads © OpenStreetMap